Chateau Margaux

This largely forgotten vintage seems to have turned the corner in the last year or two. Because of strict selections made at the top châteaux, the wines always had density, but the level of tannin was frequently too high and the type of tannin was more green and astringent. Château Margaux's 1994 has always been one of the candidates for the "wine of the vintage." The wine still has a dense plum/purple colour and a big, sweet nose of black fruits intermixed with licorice, camphor, vanilla and a hint of flowers. The wine is dense and powerful, but the tannins have softened and do not seem as hard and intrusive as they did in the late 1990's. This wine will last for decades and hopefully become even more seamless, although it is hard to believe all the tannin will gradually dissipate. Anticipated maturity:2008-2025.

Chateau Margaux was one of the last estates to bottle their 1994, hoping to be a classic, long-lived Margaux. The opaque purple color is followed by this estate's tell-tale aromas of flowers, blackcurrants, licorice, and smoky oak. This dense, powerful, closed wine is a true vin de gard. It needs a decade of cellaring, but it should last for 25-35 years. Readers may find this wine reminiscent of the 1988, only riper and more powerful. Ancicipated maturity : 2005-2030.

The 1996 Chateau Margaux, a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, must be a strong contender for wine of the vintage. It offers everything you desire from this First Growth. It is blessed with breathtaking delineation and freshness on the nose, understated at first and then blossoming with mineral-infused black fruit, hints of blueberry, crushed stone and violet. The palate is perfectly balanced with filigree tannin, perfect acidity, a wine where everything seems to be in its right place. Blackberry, crushed stone at the front of the mouth, just a touch of spice towards the finish that shows supreme control. This is a Margaux that seems to light up the senses. It was outstanding in its youth...something that has not changed one bit over the intervening two decades. This may well turn out to be the Left Bank pinnacle of the 1990s. Drink 2016-2050. Tasted July 2016.

The 1996 Château Margaux is undoubtedly one of the great classics produced under the Mentzelopoulos regime. In many respects, it is the quintessential Château Margaux, as well as the paradigm for this estate, combining measured power, extraordinary elegance, and admirable complexity. In short, it's a beauty! The colour is opaque purple. The wine offers extraordinarily pure notes of blackberries, cassis, toast and flowers, gorgeous sweetness, a seamless personality, and full body, with nothing out of place. The final blend(85%Cabernet Sauvignon, 10%Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc)contains the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon since 1986.This wine has shut down, yet the fruit remains exceptionally sweet and pure. Moreover, there are layers of flavour in the mouth and a surreal lightness/elegance in spite of the wine's obvious power and density. Is it capable of surpassing the quality of the 2000, 1995,1990,1986,1983,and 1982?Time will tell. Personally, I prefer the opulence and viscosity of the 1990 from a purely hedonistic standpoint, but I do believe this wine will develop an extraordinary perfume and possess the same level of richness as most concentrated vintages Margaux has produced. It is one of the strongest candidates for the wine of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2045.

THE 1996 Chateau Margaux, which was bottled in September 1998 is undoubtedly one of the great classics produced under the Mentzelopoulos regime. In many respects, it is the quintessential Chateau Margaux, as well as the paradigm for the estate, combining measured power, extraordinary elegance, and admirable complexity. I tasted the wine of three separate occasions in January, and in short, it’s a beauty! The colour is opaque purple. The wine offers extraordinary pure notes of blackberries, cassis, pain grillé, and flowers, gorgeous sweetness, a seamless personality, and full body with nothing out of place. The final blend (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc) contains the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon since the 1986. Both Corinne Mentzelopoulos and administrator Paul Pontallier claim they prefer it to 1995 which is saying something given how fabulous that wine has turned out. When tasted side by side, the 1996 does taste more complete and longer, although just as backward. My instincts suggest this wine will shut down, but at present it is open-knit, tasting like a recently bottled wine. The fruit is exceptionally sweet and pure, and there are layers of flavour in the mouth. I posed the question last year as to whether it was capable of surpassing the quality of the 1995, 1190, 1986, 1983, and 1982? Time will tell. Personally, I prefer the opulence and viscosity of the 1990 from a purely hedonistic standpoint, but I do believe this wine will develop an extraordinary perfume, and possess the same level of richness as the most concentrated vintages Margaux has produced. It is one of the strongest candidates for the wine of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2040.

The 1996 is a modern day legend. This wine, a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, achieved a natural alcohol of nearly 13%. The wine's acidity is low, largely because the estate harvested the Cabernet Sauvignon extremely late, not completing the harvest until mid-October. The wine, which was the single greatest wine I tasted from the 1996 vintage in Spring 1997, continues to give every indication of being one of the all-time great clarets from this renowned wine region. The dense opaque purple colour possesses a thick, unctuous texture. The nose offers celestial aromas of cassis, vanillan, and intriguing blackberry and floral scents in the background. Despite ageing in 100% new oak, the fruit dominates the wine, with the oak offering a minor background nuance. In the mouth, this wine is massive, but not heavy, with extraordinary richness, perfect precision and equilibrium, an opulent texture and remarkably well-integrated tannin, acidity and alcohol. Revealing dazzling sweetness at present, the 1996 may be the finest Chateau Margaux I have tasted in the 2 decades I have been visiting this property.Can it surpass the quality of the 1990, 1986, 1983 and 1982, not to mention the fabulous 1995? Anticipated maturuty: 2006-2040. Last tasted 3/98.

First bottle: Quite light rim. Suggestion of TCA. But very lively - very dry on the finish. Lots of exciting flavours though.
Second bottle: Minty sweet nose. Transparent. Chewy, dusty tannins. Slightly hot finish. Very pinched tannins on the finish. Drink 2008-18

The 1998 Margaux is taking on a character reminiscent of the 1988 vintage. The colour is dense ruby/purple.The wine is tannic and austere, but elegant, with notes of asphalt,blackberries, acacia flowers, and sweet, toasty oak.Subtle, rich, nicely textured, and medium bodied, it is built for the long haul.Anticipated maturity:2008-2030

A deep garnet core with deep brick rim. The nose has moderate intensity, not the exuberance and exhilaration of the Haut-Brion, but expressive, with notes of blackberry, tar, a touch of leather and bilberry. What it does not have is Margaux's signature aroma of violets - this is more reserved and masculine. The palate is medium-bodied, quite peppery upon entry with good acidity and balance, yet missing the femininity and the finesse that marks out say the 1999 or the 2001. The finish is quite dry, perhaps a little dour compared to other Chateau Margaux. Tasted March 2008.

Absolutely compelling in two tastings of this vintage, the 2000 Margaux is composed of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. The extraordinary seductiveness, complex aromatics, and purity it exhibits lead me to believe it has reached its window of full maturity. Medium-bodied, with layers of concentration, stunning blue, red, and black fruits intermixed with spring flowers, a subtle dosage of new oak, and a distinctive personality that is elegant while at the same time powerful and substantial, this is a multi-dimensional wine that was extremely approachable and drinkable in both tastings I had of it. The color remains a healthy, even opaque bluish/purple, but there is no reason to hesitate to drink it. It should evolve for another 30-40 years, so there is no hurry either.

Tasted blind, the 2000 Chateau Margaux was a reminder of the peaks that the millennial vintage could reach. Noticeably deep in color, the bouquet rivets you to the seat with copious red berry fruit, clove and truffle, hints of cedar emerging with time. As the aromatics open and aerate, the fruit profile seems to darken and manifests blackcurrants and bilberries. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin. There is immense depth and symmetry conveyed by this First Growth, quite masculine for the estate with a gentle but insistent grip. It is a brilliant wine that flirts with perfection. Afford it another 3-4 years if you can, because it will last decades. Drink 2020-2060.

Perfect Bordeaux that's muscular yet classy. Breathtaking flavours of licorice, berry and cherry, with spice and mineral notes.