Frankreich

The enormously endowed, backward, ferociously tannic, massively extracted 2010 Mouton-Rothschild exhibits an opaque blue/purple color as well as a tight but promising nose of incense, licorice, lead pencil shavings, vanilla, blackberries and cassis. Full-bodied in the mouth, extremely young, and tasting like a barrel sample, this remarkable effort requires 10-15 years of cellaring. It should age well for half a century or more. Drink 2024 - 2065.

Only 49% of the production made it into the 2010 Mouton Rothschild, which has a strikingly beautiful label by Jeffrey Koons. This is a truly great wine, with a very high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (94%) and the other 6% Merlot. At 13.9% natural alcohol, Mouton's director, Philippe Dhalluin, has clearly produced another 50- to 60-year wine that has a chance at perfection in about 15 years time, when I suspect this wine will be rounding into drinking condition. It is dense, rich and full-bodied, with the classic Mouton creme de cassis, forest floor, licorice and floral notes, but also some blueberry and hints of subtle espresso and mulberry. The wine has more minerality and precision than the rich, extravagantly opulent 2009, and while that may please some, others will have their patience tested as they wait and wait for this compelling Mouton Rothschild to hit full maturity.

The 2010 Mouton possesses the highest level of Cabernet Sauvignon (94%) of any wine this estate has produced. Combined with 6% Merlot, the wine achieved 13.9% natural alcohol. Under director Philippe Dalhuin, the harvest was accomplished between September 28 and October 13, and only 49% of the crop made it into this powerful effort. Reminiscent of the 1986, it is a 50-60 year wine that is not meant for consumers looking for near-term gratification. This backward, tannic, full-bodied, exceptionally promising 2010 reveals enormous weight along with extravagant levels of precise, fresh boysenberry and creme de cassis fruit. The abundant minerality is due no doubt to the fresh acidity. In need of at least 15 years of cellaring, it will undoubtedly remain an infant at age 25 (as does the 1986).

Initially, there is a tangible strictness and linearity on the nose of this spellbinding Mouton-Rothschild, though it unfolds to reveal blackberry, mulberry, truffle and violets scents. The palate is medium-bodied but the tannins and silky and fine. This has a bewitching texture, seamless and utterly harmonious, the finish feminine and poised with outstanding mineralité. This might be the best wine ever produced under Philippe Dhalluin. Tasted January 2014.

Winemaker Philippe Dhalluin told me that the 2010s spent a little longer than usual in barrel and this was bottled in July. The Mouton-Rothschild 2010 has wonderful delineation on the nose that is refined, perhaps a little more linear than recent vintages, actually reminiscent of the superlative 2006 in style. The Cabernet Sauvignon is very expressive as one hoped since it contributes 96% of the blend. The palate is medium-bodied with a very expressive entry: blackberry, a thread of graphite, a touch of citrus fruit and a delicate touch of blueberry. It is tightly coiled; perhaps more so than Chateau Margaux at this point, but there is a dormant power that should be unleashed with ten years in bottle. This is an immense Mouton, its silky finish penetrating and unfathomably long. Tasted November 2012.

Of all the First Growths, Mouton has perhaps the most seductive bouquet with macerated black cherries, crème de cassis, blackcurrant, mint and cedar all with very fine delineation but a drop more opulence than say, Lafite or Latour. The palate is full-bodied with saturated, ripe tannins, layers of pure blackberry and dark cherries intertwined with a touch of blueberry. Very good grip, very smooth and flirting with the idea of ostentatiousness...but 2010 is not that kind of vintage and the Cabernet defined the finish with graphite and a touch of, what almost feels great mineralité, much more so than the 2009. Great length and poise, this actually reminds me of the stupendous 2006. Drink 2020-2050. Tasted March 2011.

This is pure Cabernet Sauvignon magic with incredible aromas of currants, blackberries and light spices. Tiny hints of hazelnut. Wet earth. Full body, with super velvety tannins. The purity of fruit is breathtaking. It goes on for minutes. This is 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot. Try after 2020.

This is pure Mouton. The aromas to this wine are so fabulous. I thought right away back to the 1947, one of the great classics of Mouton. Menthol, minty, light eucalyptus, currants and dark fruits on the nose. Full bodied, with super intense and powerful fruit and tannins. So unique for a first growth. Almost all Cab. Magnificent. This is clearly better than 2009. 94 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 6 percent Merlot

18.5 Drink 2030-2050
Tasted 17 Feb: Very youthful and very Cabernet and pretty spicy. Very correct and with an attractive dryness on the finish. Very snazzy.
Tasted 8 Apr: 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot. Burnished dark pruney crimson. Very opulent and heady on the nose. Lovely perfume. Lots of fully ripe black fruits. Amazingly polished - so much so that you are almost distracted from the huge tannic charge. Not quite as dense as some of the greatest 2010s but very well balanced. Hugely Cabernet. As in 2009, great care has been taken not to produce too heavy a wine. There is almost Lafite-like structure here. Very, very polished middle palate. Bone dry, pretty tannic finish. (Score: 18.5 30-45)