Chateau Cheval Blanc 1990

One of my favorite Cheval Blancs, it remains to be seen if the 1998, 2000, and 2008 will live up to this offering. It is the ripest wine of the aforementioned vintages, with a complex bouquet of tobacco leaf, Christmas fruitcake, sweet black fruits, bordering on fig and plum, but no hint of overripeness, and notions of new saddle leather, mint, and incense. The gorgeously expressive aromatics are followed by a full-bodied wine revealing abundant glycerin as well as elevated alcohol, but it is not hot, and nothing is out of place. Expansive, rich, and revealing the nuances and complexity that come from bottle age, it is at its peak of maturity where it should remain for another 10-15 years.

Fully mature, revealing some amber at the edge as well as an explosive nose of cedar, spice box, dried herbs, and sweet plums, figs, and blackberries, the 1990 Cheval Blanc is pure silk.

This wine has overtaken its closest rival, the 1982. Dense ruby purple with only a bit of lightening at the edge, the explosive nose of black fruits and cassis intermixed with coffee, menthol, and leather is followed by an opulent, splendidly concentrated wine that is sheer nectar. With no hard edges, gorgeously integrated glycerin, tannin, acidity, and alcohol are all present in this seamless classic. The wine has been gorgeous since youth, but is now revealing more aromatic and flavour nuances into the game. This is spectacular stuff! Anticipated maturity: now-2015. Last tasted, 12/02.

After entering what seemed like a slight dip, the 1990 Cheval Bland is rapidly assuming the mantle of that era's greatest wine from the hands of the 1982. Here it's just on fire, racing out of the blocks with its hedonistic bouquet of macerated dark cherries, sloes, game and iodine all beautifully defined and indeed, reminding me of the 1982 around the later nineties. The palate is velvet smooth, the acidity cutting through the swathe of lush black and red fruit, the merlot more expressive at this precise moment. Showy and yet refined, there is a completeness to this wine that is irresistible. Tasted February 2014.

Luscious, round. Rich as a mug of celestial milk chocolate. Extremely rich - could it be a 1990? (The wines were served blind.) But it's also ethereal and vibrant with some hints of fresh tea leaves on the nose (Cheval?). Wonderful layers and length. Drink 1997-2016. Date tasted 31st Oct 08.