Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1996

The 1996 Ducru Beaucaillou and 1996 Mouton Rothschild showed that Ducru is clearly first-growth in quality if not in name. Both were stunning efforts, with the Ducru revealing more depth and less noticeable oak whereas the Mouton seemed more tannic and oaky. For that reason, it is best cellared for another 5-10 years.

This estate's staff believes that the 1996 Mouton Rothschild is far more complex than the 1995, but less massive. I agree that among the first growths, this wine is exuberant, flamboyant bouquet of roasted coffee, cassis, smoky oak, and soy sauce. The 1996 Mouton Rothschild offers impressive aromas of black currants, framboise, coffee, and new saddle leather. This full-bodied, ripe, rich, concentrated, superbly balanced wine is paradoxical in the sense that the aromatics suggest a far more evolved wine than the flavours reveal. Anticipated: 2007-2030.

This estate’s staff believes that the 1996 Mouton Rothschild is far more complex than the 1995 but less massive. I agree that among the first-growths, this wine is showing surprising forwardness and complexity in its aromatics. It possesses an exuberant, flamboyant bouquet of roasted coffee, cassis, smoky oak and soy sauce. The impressive 1996 Mouton Rothschild offers impressive aromas of black currants, framboise, coffee, and new saddle leather. This full-bodied, ripe, rich, concentrated, superbly balanced wine is paradoxical in the sense that the aromatics suggest a far more evolved wine than the flavours reveal. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030. By the way, the 1996 blend was identical to the 1995 – 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc.

Made from a blend virtually identical to the 1995 (72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc), the 1996 has taken on weight and richness since I tasted it in spring 1997. An opaque purple colour is accompanied by an impressive, somewhat undeveloped but gorgeously pure crême de cassis nose with Asian spices, licorice, and smoaky oak in the background. Sweet, full-bodied, powerful, and rich, with formidable extract, ripe tannin, and a layered impression, this wine builds to a blockbuster finish. I am super-impressed by this wine's evolution during 1997, as it now looks to be a great Mouton which I underrated when I first tasted it. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2030. Last tasted 3/98.

Tasted at the "First Growth" lunch in London. Not quite as exuberant as the bottle served blind at Farr's horizontal, but still a great Mouton. The nose is tighter than last time but will those similar traits of blackberry, cedar, cooked meats, perhaps here with just a tiny touch of greenness. The palate is medium-bodied with a lovely rounded texture, but underneath that has great structure and focus. Packed full of cedar towards the finish, never taking its eye off the ball, very tannic on the finish. This one is definitely for the cellar. Drink 2012-2030.

Very savoury nose. Dense and thick and sweet but not ethereal. Still very embryonic. Chewy tannins. Very correct and racy. Drink 2010-25