Chateau Margaux 2004

The supple-textured 2004 Chateau Margaux is reminiscent of the 2001 or 1999. It exhibits a superb blue/purple color to the rim as well as sweet aromas of flowers, blueberries, creme de cassis, licorice, and smoke, superb fruit intensity, medium body, classic elegance, and silky, sweet tannin in the long finish. This beauty can be drunk now or cellared for two decades or more. Drink 2007-2027.

The 2004 Chateau Margaux, which has put on weight since I tasted it a year ago, is a superb example of why in certain cool, late ripening vintages, the en primeur tastings are easily 4-6 weeks too soon. At the January, 2006 tasting, the wine exhibited a gorgeous nose of licorice, white flowers, black currant liqueur, and subtle new oak. This aromatic, medium to full-bodied, superbly concentrated Margaux reminds me of a lighter version of the 1996. Precise, extremely well-delineated, beautifully pure, and, as the French would say, tres Margaux, it should be at its apogee between 2009-2028.

The 2004 is a streamlined, graceful example of Chateau Margaux with a deep plum/ruby/purple color and attractive black currant fruit intermixed with notions of white flowers, oak, and cherries. Rigidly constructed, with a lovely, medium-bodied texture, and tremendous purity, it will undoubtedly close down and need some time in the bottle. This beauty should be at its finest between 2010-2025.

The 2004 Chateau Margaux has always been a promising wine and here, served blind against the First Growths, it finally proved that patience is necessary when it comes to such wines. It has an exquisite bouquet with brilliant delineation, scents of redcurrant, raspberry coulis, cold stone (almost flint-like) with pencil-lead and cedar lending it a Pauillac-like sense of aristocratic flair. The palate is extremely well balanced with a supple opening, nigh perfect acidity with a surprisingly citric undercurrent that lends so much freshness and tension. While it does not have the weight and power of say, 2000, 2005 or 2009, it cruises along with utmost harmony and you become smitten by its charms - something that is perhaps in short supply among the First Growths in this vintage. This is excellent. Tasted September 2016. Drink 2020-2050.

A deep black/garnet colour. The nose has stupendous definition and clarity, with that ethereal sense of controlled power and intensity, scents of dark cherry, pencils shavings and cedar all with wonderful definition and focus. The palate is medium-bodied, superb acidity, quite austere with cedar and tobacco, fine tannins, quite sharp and a little earthy on the finish. This is just a baby but should be considered a great success for the vintage. Drink 2012-2030. Tasted November 2009.

Subtle and complex aromas of crushed raspberry, milk chocolate and cigar box. Full-bodied, silky and refined, with layers of fruit and seductive tannins. Very long. A Margaux with finesse and reserve. Best after 2011.

Muscular and powerful. Superlong. Gorgeous aromas of blackberries, minerals and currants. Full-bodied and solid, with muscular tannins and a long, long finish. This is really balanced and refined. Gorgeous. Paul Pontallier, the technical director, says that it reminds him of the 1996, but may be even better; a blend of 1995 and 1996. Is he right? Maybe. Very close to 95-100

Very deep crimson. Very concentrated, very fine nose, very Margaux. Fresh, lively, dancing yet dense with lovely lift. Lightly mineral, bone dry finish. Very solid and very long term.... This was the only 2004 sample I actually ran out of because I was so keen to taste it. Wonderfully complete.