Chateau Haut Brion 2006

The 2006 Haut-Brion performed even better from bottle than it did from barrel. Sixty-four percent of the production went into this wine, and while it displays the vintage's powerful tannins and structure, it possesses superb concentration, and the minerality/scorched earth notes of a great Haut-Brion. Medium to full-bodied, with perhaps not quite the fleshiness of the 2005 or 2000, it is built more along the lines of the 1998 and 1996. It is a brilliant effort displaying sensational purity, texture, and length that should be exceptionally long-lived. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2035 .

The 2006 Haut-Brion was somewhat closed when I tasted it, especially when compared to its blockbuster rival/sibling, La Mission Haut-Brion. The Haut-Brion (11,000 cases) is a tannic, backward wine at present revealing classic notes of smoke, scorched earth, liquid minerals, plums, currants, and cherries, medium body, and sensational purity as well as concentration. The high tannins will no doubt soften with aging in barrel, and, as Haut-Brion often does, the wine should expand and put on weight. While not as superb as the 2005 or 2000, the 2006 appears to be built along the lines of the 1996. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+.

The 2006 Château Haut-Brion has a more ostentatious bouquet than the comparatively reserved La Mission: quite feisty blackberry, briary, kirsch and red plum scents, hints of leather and sage tucked just underneath. This is a bouquet determined to make an impression! The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, well-judged acidity, a gentle build to a concentrated, earthy, truffle-tinged finish that lingers long in the mouth. This seems to have the upper-hand over the La Mission and probably has a longer future. A thoroughbred from Jean-Philippe Delmas and his team.

Tasted at Haut Brion. Limpid, purple and black hue. A very ripe nose, a little muted at present but with aeration reveals blackberry, hedgerow, a touch of vanilla and black tea, Very good definition. Nose explodes after 25 minutes in glass. Full-bodied with grippy, filigree tannins (like La Mission), fine acidity. The persistency is superb, lingering over a minute in the mouth. Touch of tobacco, blackberry - all that is lacking is a flourish and flesh on the finish - just a little linear at the moment, although that may change after barrel ageing. Great potential. Tasted April 2007.

Captivating aromas of coffee, spice, violets and cedar follow through to a full-bodied palate, with refined tannins and a long finish. Lovely refinement for the vintage.

57 Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc. The grand vin represents 59% of total production.
Firm deep crimson. Complex rather hidden nose - savoury and embryonic, tobacco perhaps. Round and lively - rather charming already on the palate. Lively fresh tannins on the finish and sufficient fruit in the middle to give one confidence to believe that the wine will eventually be well balanced. Certainly pretty inky overall though - the difference between it and La Mission is the fruit weight in the middle. Elegant rather than angular. More solid matter and a little more gravitas and majesty than La Mission.

Medium ruby-red. Inviting aromas of plum, warm stones, red licorice and menthol. Suave, gentle and elegantly styled; distinctly sweeter and lusher today than the La Mission, with even more mid-palate depth. Showing more red fruits today as well, with pungent minerality giving the wine lift and juiciness. Finishes with suave but substantial building tannins. Last year this wine was showing its spine while La Mission was more opulent; in bottle it's the other way around.

Bright ruby-red. Reticent but pure aromas and flavors of black raspberry, smoke and minerals. Tightly wound and a bit youthfully sullen; comes across as less opulent than the 2006 La Mission, with a firm tannic spine that's less fully enrobed by the wine's mid-palate stuffing. This very structured, minerally Haut-Brion is going to need at least a solid decade of bottle aging. Perhaps best today on the very aromatic finish. Today it's the 2006 La Mission that sings.

The mix of flavours gives exciting complexity, first blackcurrant then bilberry, all backed by minerals and smoky flavours. The palate has breadth and fruit richness with towards the back a lighter and more elegant feel.