Chateau Haut Brion 2004

The dark plum/ruby-hued 2004 Haut-Brion exhibits a noble, discrete, smoky bouquet revealing notions of plum liqueur, black currants, sweet cherries, and subtle earth. In addition to its aromatic complexity, this medium-bodied effort reveals classic elegance and delicacy as well as sweet fruit in the mouth and a long finish. Give this streamlined, civilized wine 2-4 years of bottle age and drink it over the following 20-25 years. It is amazingly similar to Haut-Brion’s 1999.

Although atypically delicate and light for this estate, the 2004 Haut-Brion exhibits the essence of this fabulous terroir situated in the suburbs of Pessac. Gravelly, smoky, cranberry, black cherry, and plum-like scents jump from the glass of this fresh, medium-bodied red along with notions of road tar, earth, and truffles. Stylish, with crisp acidity, it is a beautifully made, pure, long 2004 to enjoy during its first two decades of life.

An atypically high percentage of Merlot (61%) in addition to 19% Cabernet Franc, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon make up the 2004 Haut-Brion. Fifty-five percent of the production was utilized for the grand vin, a surprisingly forward, charming, silky effort despite the relatively high tannin. In fact, it reminded me of the 1985 even though those vintage conditions have nothing in common with 2004 other than high yields. In any event, the 2004 is a beautiful effort that is far superior to the 2002. Soft, gentle, and gracious, with a deep plum/ruby/purple color, it offers up aromas of smoked herbs, sweet plums and black cherries, and hints of mulberries as well as earth. Medium-bodied, structured, pure, round, and seductive, with a long finish, there is more here than meets the eye and the palate. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024.

Wonderful aromas of dried flowers, currants, berries and mineral. Full-bodied, yet reserved and refined. Lovely texture, with a pure silk feel. Seamless and beautiful red. Great length. A joy to taste. Even better than from the barrel. Best after 2012.

Classy aromas of flowers, toasted oak and berries follow through to a full-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a long finish. Seamless.

Medium intensity. Very well integrated, neat nose without massive intensity but attractive inky dryness. Super fresh acidity but not aggressive and lovely supple tannins. There’s not the weight of the 2005 on the palate but there is lovely balance. Really fragrant and fresh.Drink 2013-28

[M 61%, CS 20%, CF 19%] Deep crimson and just slightly less blue than La Mission. More aromatic lift than La Mission but lots of rigour. Strict framework, tannins more evident than flesh. A low key wine, but then Haut-Brion is always low key. Dry rather than sweet - so unpushy as to be easy to overlook. Fine dry tannins on the finish. A bit denser than La Mission.